Thursday, January 28, 2010

Perhaps it’s the recent Julie and Julia fever, perhaps it’s because Paris is so overwhelming, but many of my fellow students have chosen a systematic task to blog about. One of my friends is trying a new cheese each week for his blog. My task is a bit more complicated. Don’t worry, I’m not going to bone a duck, though I did make canard au orange in my cooking class last week (more on that later…). I’ve decided, since I conveniently have 20 weeks in Paris, to explore one of the 20 arrondissements each week.

For those of you who aren’t familiar with Paris, it’s a lumpy circle, and the districts are divided up in a swirling pattern, reminiscent of an escargot. In the heart of Paris lies the first arrondissement, and the numbers get larger as you spiral outwards. I live in the 16th right by the Bois du Boulogne, the large park that separates Paris from the surrounding banlieue.

Since I live here, I’ve decided to start my project in the sixteenth. Unfortunately, I also decided to begin my thorough exploration on Sunday, and completely forgot that unlike New York, this city does sleep - all day Sunday. Especially the sixteenth, which is for the most part upper crusty residential, or as the Parisians say, “chi-chi.” (To give you a good picture of how seriously the French take their Sabbath, a young girl came knocking on our door Sunday night to pick up a package the mailman left with Martine, but to no avail. “Excuse me Madame, it’s Sunday,” said my host Mom, and slammed the door.) But to me, the 16th is more a neighborhood to walk through then to partake of, so Sunday worked.

Paris reminds me of the private mansion/museum we visited during orientation- a house completely designed for gazing at art. There is no doubt that Paris was built for looking, especially in the 16th, which lies right across the river from most major attractions and provides sweeping views of the Eiffel Tower. The best place for gazing is the Place Trocadero, a large plaza descending into manicured lawns and fountains, completely flattening in homage before the Effiel Tower, and clearing the view for a night gaze or a perfect picture. Even with this impeccable view, it’s easy to forget that you’re in Paris here, as people ask for metro directions in Polish and Spanish (and though my first instinct is to reply in French, English is almost always more effective.)

But besides for the trocadero and the arc de triomphe, the 16th isn’t much of a tourist destination, they tend to stay a bit closer to the Eiffel tower (which conveniently makes it almost impossible to get lost). It’s quiet and sleepy at night, so not really the place to party…. But it has everything I need when it comes to a place to live. I have my boulangerie/pattisserie (for bread and pastries), fromagerie (you can guess that one), vinery, and boucherie right down the street.







Though most buildings are the picture of old-fashioned luxury, mine is a newly built complex, with tiny little apartments. My room is small, but has all I need, and my host mom is hysterical, maternal, angelic, and makes one mean crepe.


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